Deo Tibba Climbing Expedition
Mt. Deo Tibba is a beautiful 6001 Meter (19,687 Ft.) high peak, located in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalaya and situated quite close to the resort town of Manali, in Himachal Pradesh. The mountain itself consists of an extensive ice cap, with the actual climb to the summit being up an inclined hump of a ‘windslab’ snow. This magnificent peak is accessible, once the edge of the great snow & ice plateau extending right up to the periphery of the Malana Glacier, (which abuts the upper Kullu and Malana valleys), is reached. On reaching the summit, one is rewarded with an exhilarating view of vast eternal snowfields, hanging glaciers and many peaks of the surrounding areas; including the great peaks of the Malana & Tosh glacier catchments.
Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.T. S. Eliot
- Destination: Himachal Pradesh
- Location: Pir Panjal range of Manali region, Kullu Valley
- Departure: Manali
- Google Map Co-ordinates: 32.1975° N, 77.3825° E
- Highest Altitude: 6,001 m/19,687 ft.
- Nearest City (Airport): Bhuntar (Kullu)
- Nearest City (Railway Station): Joginder Nagar
- Duration: 12D/11N
- Dates: On request
- Months: End of May to June & from September to October
- Level: Difficult with technical sections.
- Guide: Available
- Price: On request
The Approach Trek / Route Information:
Earlier the village of Jagatsukh, just 6 kms from Manali on the left bank of the Beas River, used to be the road head for the trek to the base camp. Now, however, since the construction of the 200 MW Allain Duhangan hydro-electric project, one can drive right up the restricted approach road to Khanol (depending on the procurement of a permit for using the approach road from the AD hydro authorities). From here, it is a 3-day approach walk along the Duhangan Nallah to the base camp for the Deo Tibba climb, which is usually pitched at Tainta (4070 M) or, at the glacial tarn of Chotta Chandratal, a little higher up. After the base camp at Tainta / Chotta Chandratal (where a stay of 2 – 4 days is required for acclimatization, plus load ferry of equipment and rations up to camp-1), the climb to Camp-1 commences. Camp –1 is located at either Dhuangan Col (Dhuangan Pass), after ascending up a steep slope of between 45 and 55 degrees for around 300 meters, or, a little ahead after traversing the Deo Tibba Glacier. The glacier has to be negotiated with care as there a number of crevasses here. Also, the climb up the slope to the Col is mixed on snow, rock and ice to cover this portion of the climb safely; ropes will be fixed for most of this section. Snow and Ice Craft training on the slopes of Jagatsukh peak, before the main climb. After reaching the Duangan Col (5200 M), Camp -1 is set at the Col, or a little further on at the base of a rugged ridge known as the Pitton Ridge. The Col is generally preferred but this depends primarily on the prevailing conditions, at the time of pitching camp. After acclimatizing for 1 to 2 days at Camp – 1, during which the Instructors, high-altitude porters (HAP) and climbers will also make 2 – 3 load ferry trips up to Camp –2, the climbing party will move across the Col to establish Camp-2 at the foot of the actual peak at an altitude of around 5400M. This is at the base of the southeast gully. This portion of the climb also involves glacier travel and due care has to be exercised. After proper acclimatization at Camp-2, many climbers make a direct ascent from this high camp to the summit of the mountain via the Pitton Ridge, which faces east. The ridge is quite steep with a few ‘Technical’ sections and also requires fixed rope for safe travel for around 150 meters. An alternative route, involves ascending up a snow gully to the South East of the Pitton ridge. This route (which we will be using), also involves mixed climbing on snow and ice and again a fixed rope is required for around 250 meters of the route, to render the climb safe for all the climbers. Usually in ending May or the start of June and then again in September, the snow and ice conditions on this section of the climb are nice and stable. This makes negotiating the gully a challenging & highly satisfying alpinism experience. Soon after ascending up the fixed rope through the gully, the climbers move onto a vast snowfield. From this point on Mt. Deo Tibba and its neighbor, the majestic looking sheer peak of Indrasan, are visible throughout the climb. For fit & acclimatized climbers moving at a good pace, it is only an additional one and a half to two hours from this point onwards, following the left side of the upper glacier, up to the summit of the mountain. The summit of Deo Tibba is a giant snow dome and therefore it is a relatively easy final ascent to the peak with a few crevasses to negotiate. Just before the summit, the slope becomes steeper to around 50 degrees gradient, after which it is an easy walk to the top. The summit itself is quite a wide expanse able to accommodate a complete football team (leave alone all climbers). And the view from the top, on a clear day…is truly breathtaking & guaranteed to exceed all your expectations.
- Day 1 / Manali
- Arrive in Manali and transfer to the hotel. (Overnight in hotel)
- Day 2 / Jagatsukh – Khanol - Chikka (3,160 m/10,368 ft), (Trek Duration: 2 to 3 hours)
- Transfer by vehicle from your hotel to the road head at Khanol and from there, an easy trek to Chikka, alongside the Duhangan nallah. (Overnight in camp)
- Day 3 / Chikka – Seri (3,620 m/11,877 ft), (Trek Duration: 4 to 5 hours)
- A moderate trek of around 8 Km to cross the tree line and reach the meadows of Seri, where the second camp on the approach march is pitched. (Overnight in camp)
- Day 4 / Seri – Tainta – Chotta Chandrataal. (Base Camp – 4,070 m/13,353 ft), (Trek Duration: 4 to 5 hours)
- This trek involves an initial ascent through alpine meadows and later on some moraine along a stream to reach Tainta. A brief but steep climb from Tainta will bring us up to the glacial tarn of Chota Chandrataal, which will serve as base camp for our technical training. Here the climbers will be given a hands-on crash course in basic climbing techniques. This small tarn is literally a stone’s throw away from the Deo Tibba icefall and provides excellent opportunities for learning alpine style climbing techniques as well as basic snow and ice-craft.
- Day 5 / Acclimatization, training and load ferrying days.
- This day will be utilized for proper acclimatization of climbers. Simultaneously, our highly qualified mountaineering instructors will give the participants a crash course in alpine style mountain climbing techniques and the intricacies of snow & ice-craft and for fixing rope and route opening up to Camp – 1, by our staff. Simultaneously, the climbers will also embark on a few load ferry trips up the camp 1 or ABC, depending on the conditions at that time. This aids acclimatization of the climbers and stock up the higher camps.
- Day 6 / Chotta Chandratal – Camp 1 (ahead of Duhangan Col, 5,200 m/17,060 ft) Duration: 5 hours
- Steep ascent up to the Dhuangan Col to occupy Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (ABC) at 5,200 – 5,300 m, after crossing the Col and moving a little ahead on the glacier.
- Day 7 / Camp 1 – Camp 2 (Summit Camp at the base of the Gully at an altitude of roughly 5,500 m/18,045 ft) Duration: 2 to 3 Hours.
- Traverse across the glacier and reach Camp 2 at the foot of the southeast gully.
- Day 8 - Day 9 / Reserved for the Summit Attempt. (incl. Buffer days)
- The summit attempt involves an altitude gain of around 600 M and takes about 9-10 hours to reach the summit of Mt. Deo-Tibba and descend back to Camp 2. Due to this reason, the climbers will have to start the day early at around 3.30 to 4:00 am for the summit attempt. But for all the hard work, the views from the top is nothing but spectacular. After reaching the top the climbers traverse the high snow ridge on the way back from the summit to ABC.
- Day 10 / Descend to Base Camp (At Tainta). Duration: 6 – 7 Hours
- Day 11 / Descent from Base Camp (Tainta) – Chikka and onward to the road head (at Khanol).
- Transfer from Khanol by vehicle to Manali on the same day. Duration: 7 – 8 Hours.
- Day 12 / Manali - Departure
- Camping & Trekking equipments including tents, carry mat, dining tent, toilet tent.
- Personally trained professional guides, cook, porter/ponies to carry equipment as well as personal luggage.
- Forest entry and permits wherever needed.
- Ground support from an experienced team of adventurers and guides.
- High comfort/luxury trek facilities.
- Food & Beverages during the trek: Full board - Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea etc. (Multi cuisine veg/non-veg prepared by well trained cooks).
- Transfers and transport during the trek.
- Accommodation in Manali with breakfast.
- Any medical expenses, evacuation, oxygen cylinder etc.
- Personal clothing - incl. jackets etc., sleeping bags.
- Climbing equipment such as snow boots, gaiters, crampons, ice axe etc. could be rented on request at an additional cost.
- Any kind of Insurance.
- Personal expenses.
- Any airfare.
- Any payment transaction cost or fee.
- Transport for sightseeing in and around Manali and in Himachal Pradesh.
- Any item not mentioned in inclusions.
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